perfect-fit-patterns

There are thousands of sewing patterns available on our website, but the biggest mistake you can make when choosing your sewing pattern size is to assume it will be the same as the ready to wear size that fits you on the high street. Dress pattern sizing schemes have no connection or correlation with ready to wear sizing schemes and each sewing pattern company uses its own sizing scheme. Having the ability to adjust a sewing pattern for the perfect fit is a useful skill and isn't as difficult as it sounds.  All of the sizing charts are available on both our website and the sewing pattern packets so you can have a good look before you buy.

It is also important to understand your body measurements might not sit perfectly within one particular size on the sewing pattern since we are all shaped differently. Most people have to make adjustments to patterns to achieve personally fitted garments for their own particular and very different shapes. Shape is not the same as measurements. Always expect to make fitting adjustments and remember being able to get something on doesn't mean that it fits and hangs the way the designer intended. Here we'll tell you how to navigate your way around sewing patterns and be on the road to the perfect fit.

A couple of top tips for starters:

If you find you're in between pattern sizes choose the larger size because it is easier to adjust down. Remember no one will know the size and well fitted garments are what will give you the wow factor not the numbers behind them!

You will need to measure your waist - to find your natural waistline tie a piece of cotton tape loosely around your waist and where it falls is your natural waistline.

How to Achieve the Perfect Fit: Skirts and Trousers

[caption id="attachment_4119" align="alignright" width="231"]Complete Guide to Fitting Complete Guide to Fitting - a fantastic resource[/caption]

Use your waist and hip measurements (see our range of tape measures here) to choose the size from the chart on the sewing pattern packet. If you often suffer with fitting problems, for example, on your thighs it is a good idea to take these measurements and compare them to the actual pattern pieces to get a feel for how the garment will fit you. If it looks as if it will be too tight you can save yourself a lot of time and heartache and choose a looser fitting pattern.

To ensure a good fit at the crotch measure from the bottom of where the waistband will sit at the front, between your legs and up to where the bottom of the waistband will sit at the back and compare to the pattern pieces. If there are any concerning discrepancies you will need to make an adjustment and there is an excellent book we highly recommend called Complete Guide to Fitting by Palmer/Pletsch which, quite frankly, is worth it's weight in gold! With step by step guidance on every type of adjustment everyone can achieve the perfect fit! It is an old publication and might look a bit retro, but, trust us, there's a reason why this book has stood the test of time!

It is also crucial to get the length right - kiss goodbye to ankle swingers or puddles of fabric at the end of your leg! Consider which shoes you will want to wear and where you will want the trousers or skirt to finish and allow for this.

How to Achieve the Perfect Fit: Dresses, Tunics, Tops and Blouses

How to Choose the Correct Pattern Size

The first thing you need to know is your cup size, which may not be the same as your bra cup size so it's time to get measuring! (see our range of tape measures here) Always wear a well fitted bra or the one you plan to wear underneath the finished garment.

Ask a friend to help you keep your tape measure level. Position the tape measure high under your armpits, above your bust line and measure all the way around your body. Note this measurement down. Take your bust measurement (across the widest point of your assets!) and deduct the high bust measurement from the bust measurement, which will determine your cup size (see table below).

[caption id="attachment_32" align="aligncenter" width="680"]bust-measurements The left image shows how to position the tape measure for your high bust, also known as chest size. The right image shows where to position the tape measure to determine your bust size.[/caption]

High bust / bust measurement difference
 		Cup size
1" A
2" B
3" C
4" D
5" DD
6" DDD

Most patterns are made for B cups. If you are a B cup or under life is fairly simple - use the chart on the pattern packet and choose the size nearest to your bust measurement. If you are an A cup the difference in size will be minimal and you will be working with something that is slightly larger than necessary therefore easy to adjust down.

If you are a C cup or above life's a little more complicated, but don't worry we're here to help! You have two options:

  1. Choose a pattern that comes in cup sizes available from Butterick, Vogue, Simplicity and McCalls, which can save you a lot of hassle!
  2. Follow the guidelines below for a standard (i.e. no cup size options available) pattern.

If you are working with a standard pattern use your high bust measurement, sometimes known as chest measurement, to select the pattern size on the chart. Take a tape measure and place it above your bust, snugly under your armpits, across the chest and around your body. This is the size of your frame and will help to ensure you don't end up with a gaping neck or arm holes, which can happen if your choose your pattern size based on your bust measurement. In order to achieve a good fit you need to work with a pattern that fits your frame first and adjust it to fit your bust second.

Once you've selected the right size for your frame you will need to do a full bust adjustment to ensure a good fit round the bust. We recommend using Patty Palmer's book as mentioned above.

Next Steps: Working with the Pattern Pieces

Cut out the tissue paper according to the size you have selected. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant size waist or hip lines. All of our patterns are multi-size and will allow you graduate out or in for your larger or smaller hip or waist measurement.
pattern-grading

Pattern Paper Mockup
If there are any darts pin them by creasing the paper and pinning. Also pin the side seams and shoulders so you have half the garment made out of tissue paper.

Try it on, preferably with a friend who can check the fit of the back for you and suggest anywhere alterations may need to be made, alternatively take a photo using a mirror to check the back.

The centre front line should be perpendicular to the floor and run down the centre of your chest. If it deviates then it will be necessary to make a full bust adjustment referring to the book we recommended earlier.

It is also worth noting that once you've cut your pattern pieces they may measure a good few inches bigger than your actual body measurements. This is because they allow a certain amount of ease firstly for wearing and secondly for design. If making a pattern designed for use with knit or jersey fabrics it will have little or no ease as it is not necessary due to the natural stretch of the fabric. Equally a woven fabric will need more ease due to less stretch in the fabric.

One Last Bit of Great Advice

Having done any alterations you might think the following is unnecessary but we cannot emphasise enough the importance of making a toile (a mock up) in calico, an old sheet, scrap fabric, a table cloth! Use the largest size stitch on your sewing machine to sew it together so it is easy to unpick if you have to make any adjustments. This way you can check the fit before you cut into your valuable fabric. Years of experience has taught us this is a vital step in creating the perfect garment.

If you feel it necessary to alter the toile in any way, make those adjustments, take it apart and use the toile as the pattern piece.

All of our sewing patterns, tape measures, books, fabrics and anything else you might need to complete your projects are available on our website.

Remember we're at the end of the phone and you can also contact us via email, Facebook and Twitter for any further advice or guidance - we love to help!

Now, away you go and get sewing!

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